Everything that Breathes

Flat Tops, Chinese Wall - http://colorado-lifestyle.blogspot.com/2010/11/devils-causeway-hike.html

September 9, 2023 - Today we decided to hike the Chinese Wall Trail in the Flat Tops. The trail started across the road from the Pagoda Trail that we hiked a few days ago. This trail has more elevation change and more tree cover than the Pagoda Trail. It also has a prettier view of the mountains. We forgot to take a photo of the wall so I borrowed one from www.colorado-lifestyle.com. The wall is impressive!

As we hiked up and down, the view to our south was gorgeous and we had it all to ourselves. At the highest elevation on the trail, 10,600 ft, we heard voices. Two women, with French accents, greeted us. We chatted briefly about the view. They were backpacking to Lost Lake. Our destination as well. They continued down the trail as we took in the view and consulted our map.

Soon, two men arrived from a side trail. They were headed to the lake as well. They inquired where we had started the day and where we were headed. I was still catching my breath and commented on the elevation, 3,000 ft higher than home. They said they were from the islands near Seattle, essentially sea level! It’s interesting how far people travel to hike a trail.

Soon the four of us were making our way down the steep slope that approached the lake. 

Lost Lake

It was a little after noon when we reached the lake so we found a private shady spot on the bank for lunch. Our fellow hikers stopped to filter water from the stream entering the lake. They were soon joined by two dogs and a guy who was camping on a knoll by the lake. While I didn’t hear the entire conversation, I heard the guy mention his dogs were eating more that he had planned and that, “at less than 10% body fat he was consuming more calories than expected”. It was hard to tell if he was bragging or asking for food? Food I think.

Not being part of the conversation, and done with lunch, we collected our packs and headed back up the steep slope. 

A woman was coming down. We exchanged hellos but everyone kept hiking without breaking their pace.

Not far from where we had first meet people, we saw a dog. Then another. And finally four dogs before we heard the clip clop of a horse.

A Shepherd’s Horse

Actually it was three horses. The rider brought the horses to a stop along side us with no perceptible command.  I immediately noticed the size of his saddle bags. Each of his four bags was at least twice the size of our typical 45 lb backpacks. Our gear is bulky but lightweight this one person had a minimum of 400 pounds of gear. He looked like one of the shepherds from the trail head. I said hello and inquired about his destination. He didn’t say, but asked where we were camped. I said we were camped back along the road and that his sheep wandered through our camp twice a day.

He responded “Iain’t a sheep herd.” Oops, I think I offended him. 

He continued with, he was “here to bury a man”. I thought about the size of his saddlebags and quickly rejected the idea there were arms and legs in the bags. I asked how he managed to get that job. Perhaps realizing his implication, he helpfully clarified he was spreading ashes. This was getting a little awkward. I glanced at his horse that was pretending to sleep. I questioned, “That’s an unusual task?”

“He was my best friend” he said.

We responded that, “We were sorry to hear of his loss.”

He said, “Everything that breathes dies.” I wondered if that was what he had been contemplating on the ride here.

We murmured our agreement and wished him safe travels. Then scooted down the trail leaving him to his lonely task.

Hiking on, I reflected on how hiking a trail is life condensed. Most of the time you’re alone with your chosen partner. The people you meet mostly provide a superficial polite hello but aren’t that interested in a further connection. Occasionally you meet someone with something on their mind. Those people will tell you what they are thinking or what they need. 

Back at camp I reflected on his apparent need to connect and my tinge of guilt for not inquiring about a memory of his friend.

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